An academic perspective on Tanzanian Conservation

    An overview

         As much as I have enjoyed the adventures and recreational activities on our trip, it is important to remember that our purpose here is academic. Tanzania is beautiful as it combines the tropical coast with the majesty of the mountains. It is also unique in that it is the only country to house the four major African language groups: Hadzba, Iraqw, Nilotic, and Bantu. Needless to say, Tanzania is culturally diverse and provides many avenues for focused and interdisciplinary study.
        In the recent years, conservation has been the subject of debate in Tanzania. The current social, political, and economic state of the country complicates the already challenging issue. There is disagreement among interest groups on what needs to be conserved and who has the rights to resources. Consensus is imperative to resolving the issue and creating a plan for sustainable practices and management of resources in the future.
        There are three major players in the debate on conservation: the ecologists and environmentalist, the tourism industry, and the local resources users. The spectrum of concerns includes preserving biodiversity, profiting and bolstering the economy, and protecting livelihoods. Each group has something to offer the others and peaceful resolution is dependent upon effective communication and understanding on all sides.
        Historically, Tanzania has not needed to focus on conservation because resources have been plentiful and governmental focus has been in other areas. After achieving independence around 1960, the Tanzanian government shifted their attention towards improving the economy and livelihoods of Tanzanian people. Unfortunately, because of a change in political ideology, there was national economic decline. Because of the low economic status at that time, many Tanzanians, including government officials, did not see the link between conservation efforts and improved livelihoods. Thus, conservation was of low priority to the government and the majority of the Tanzanian population.
       In the beginning of the conservation movement, the 1980s, to date, many local resource users lived in poverty and saw conservation as an exclusionary movement and an elite ideology of British hunters. They were not responsive to programs and efforts, not solely because these programs restricted their access to local resources, but because locals did not understand the motivation behind conservation program implementation and were skeptical as to how and when in the future these programs will help them. It is the responsibility of government officials and experts in the field of ecology to bridge the gap in understanding.
       From my personal experience in Zanzibar, I have found that locals are more responsive and helpful to tourists when tourists put forth effort to respect local customs and cultural norms. In our hotel, the Kiponda, we were complimented and welcomed back because of our conservative dress and sobriety. On the scavenger hunt, our group was polite and friendly. Locals were eager and willing to help us find our desired destinations.
       Another point of contention with locals is whether the conservation programs really work and how they will be beneficial to their communities. In a lecture on marine and coastal environment issues in Zanzibar, Dr. Narriman Jaddawi emphasized the importance of visual confirmation and choice with local acceptance of "no take" zones. These zones are areas where collection of marine organisms is periodically restricted allowing for growth, recovery, and, eventually, increased prosperity of marine organisms. This, in turn, benefits local collectors and preserves biodiversity. At first, locals, mainly women, resisted this practice. However, they were given visual evidence of the success of the practices and the choice of whether to continue. Most chose to continue, exemplifying the possible harmony between ecologists and local resource users. This achievement is based on transparency and communication, two aspects that are also essential in ameliorating negative relationships between locals and tourism companies.
        Ecotourism is a term used to describe tourism to parks and protected areas. It generates 14% of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP). While it is true that tourism ranks second among earners of foreign income, that does not excuse the exclusion of Tanzanians in the tourism process or the distribution of profits.
        Many times, tourism companies make promises to locals that profits from tourism will be split between the company and the community. These often go unfulfilled, hardening community members' hearts to ecotourism and generating distrust of conservation efforts. Ecologists are also irritated by tourism when protected areas are damaged or endangered or endemic species are disrespected. In his lecture on coastal ecology, Dr. Ian Bryceson showed an impressionistic photo of a coral with a damaged area the shape of a human footprint. This photo clearly demonstrated another downside to tourism.
        Tourism companies are allowed access to property or prime fishing areas and usually promise locals a cut of their profits. This offer is generally accepted because poverty leaves locals with few alternatives. If tourism companies would diligently follow through with this plan, both parties would benefit. However, is these types of deals, transparency is rare and locals often receive little to no profits. Tourism companies also make promises of better communities but fail to explain how, why, or when these "better communities" will emerge leaving locals confused and frustrated. In some cases, profits surpass locals and land internationally and communities remain unchanged, defeating the supposed purpose of tourism, to bolster the local economy and better the community.
       It is clear that all involved parties need to make amends and concessions. Ecologists need to communicate better with government officials and with local resource users as well as follow through with plans of management assistance. Transparency and honesty is needed from the tourism industry. Finally, local resource users need to be flexible and understanding of current conditions and the necessity to protect and conserve the environment. Consensus among these groups needs to be supplemented by government support and funding to ensure the success of conservation programs.
      Seeing poverty and sub par living conditions in Tanzania, particularly Zanzibar, makes resolving the issue of conservation seem daunting. However, traveling to the western part of Tanzania gives me hope.Conservation efforts have been more successful here meaning the problem is surmountable. Efforts here are not without flaw, but many big jumps have been made. I have hope for the future and look forward to following Tanzanian conservation efforts!

Dar es Salaam

Friday, May 10th

Mambo! 

       Everything is going smoothly! We are still at White Sands in Dar es Salaam. On Friday Alex and I woke up late and had to rush to breakfast which was amazing. This resort is picturesque and peaceful. I continue to forget I am in Africa.

        I had a personalized omelet for breakfast. The chef prepared it in front of Me. They also offered pork sausage, beef sausage, homemade waffles, baked beans, toast, fresh fruit, yogurt, bacon and fried eggs. With my omelet I had mango juice, a fresh mango and toast with strawberry jelly. 

        

         After breakfast we were allowed time to explore the beach and surrounding area. The tides here are drastically different. At low tide the sands are covered in seaweed. We also walked on the pier and in the garden. 

         John Michael has been trying to teach us some Swahili so I have been working on that. My favorite term is "lala salama" which means sleep well. After this short lesson we waded through the water to a small boat that appeared to be for fishing. It was a wooden boat covered by a blue tarp.

(Danielle and me on the boat) 

         We went to a nearby island, Mubdya, at midday. The island's namesake is a tree found close to the water. The island was born when tech tonic movement exposed a coral reef only 120, 000 years ago. This makes Mubdya a very young island relative to other islands on the African coast. 

           Our first academic discussion was focused on the physical and chemical differences between the mainland sands, Dar es Salaam, and the island sands, Mubdya. The island sand is biologically engineered meaning it is composed of bits and pieces of coral and shell i.e. calcium carbonate. The sand on Dar es Salaam is made of quartz. It is land made and more dense. Another lecture on the history of colonial Tanzania followed. 

        For lunch we had fresh fish and chips. As local island men placed the food on our table, I realized there was another pair of eyes staring back at me. in Tanzania it is common to serve fish with the head still attached. It is also common to suck on the head and eat the eyes. Unfortunately I passed on this wonderful opportunity. The fish was difficult to eat without utensils and I often found that I was gnawing, not on a tough part of the fish but on fish bones. The fish were called pano or parrot fish. 

        We headed back to the island mid afternoon and showered. I ordered chicken curry for dinner and it was delicious. Soon after dinner I was off to bed.  

          

        

Flight and arrival

Hujambo!!

         Our trip to Dar es Salaam was pretty smooth, other than our delay in Atlanta. The two longest flights were 8 and 9 hours and we spent no more than an hour in Amsterdam in between those two flights. 

          On the first lengthy flight, I was seated in between Nick and a very large Swedish man with bad breath and the airplane was easily 80 degrees. Needless to say I was pretty uncomfortable. My discomfort vanished, however, when I finally saw my hot pink suitcase at baggage claim in the Dar es Salaam airport. 

         We went around the city to avoid the heaviest traffic on the way to the hotel. We finally arrived at White Sands Hotel and Resort at 11:00 pm (Tanzanian time). I was assigned to a room with Alex who was a fabulous roommate. We were happy to see that a mosquito net was provided to surround our two single beds while we slept. 

    I was surprised by how nice the resort was! It was beautiful and right on the water. 

      

        We ate dinner very late with a colleague of Dr. Beymer-Farris named Dr. Ian Bryceson. He was raised in Tanzania and now lives and works at a university in Norway. Each student was introduced to him and was asked to give an interesting fact. I shared with the group that my family calls me bunny instead of my name. Dr. Beymer-Farris and Dr. Bryceson decided it would be funny to call me bunny in Swahili for the duration of the trip. I am now Kahlulu. 

       I warmed up to the name after he gave a short anecdote about the significance of the rabbit in Tanzania. Apparently the rabbit is the most clever of all the animals. It is much smaller than the stronger animals like lions and leopards but it is smarter and able to outwit them. I kiddingly responded that, naturally, it was a perfect description for me. 

       We left dinner and headed back to the room to go to bed. The shower was scorching hot while I showered then freezing cold when Alex showered. I found it very difficult to keep my mouth closed during the entire shower. We brush our teeth with bottled water and tried to avoid the tap when possible. I wanted to go to bed at a decent hour but had difficulty even after taking melatonin. I was exhausted but excited to see how how the next three weeks would play out.